Horse Gestation

Archive for September, 2009

Ashley Griffin, University of Kentucky

When presenting stimuli (cues), it is best to begin with simple, natural stimuli or basic cues that are obvious and readily learned. For instance, direct rein pressure is a basic, obvious cue because it literally shows the horse which direction to go. After the horse has learned the correct responses to basic cues, the horse can easily be taught more subtle cues by pairing new cues with already learned cues. This produces a horse that is very light and responsive to the rider.

Presenting New Cues

Use basic or previously learned cues to introduce new cues. A new cue should be presented first, followed by an old cue. Although no research data is available on the efficiency of different timing of cue presentation in the horse, empirical evidence from other species indicates that the horse probably learns best through delayed conditioning. Delayed conditioning occurs when the new cue is given and is continued until the old cue is presented. There is a slight delay between the old and new cue, or the two cues slightly overlap. Delayed conditioning has proven to be very effective in learning. However, simultaneous presentation, in which the new and old cue are presented together at the same time, and backwards presentation, where the old cues are presented before the new cues, result in very ineffective or non-existent learning.

An Example of Delayed Conditioning

When teaching a horse to neck rein, the trainer lays the neck rein (new, subtle cue) against the horse's neck and follows it with the direct rein (old cue) and opposite side leg pressure. By presenting the new cue and following it with the old cue, a trainer uses the old cue to show the horse the meaning of the new cue and to reinforce the new cue.

Emily McCabe Alger, 4-H Program Coordinator, Department of Extension; Jenifer Nadeau, M.S., PhD, Assistant Professor, Equine Extension Specialist, University of Connecticut

The role of a horse trainer is to prepare your horse for you so that the horse is safe and responsive to your cues. Trainers can work with a horse from a minimum of 30 days to a more extensive training period, depending on your training goals. Here is a list of questions you should ask when looking for a trainer. It is important that you are on the same page and you both agree on methodology.

1. How often is a horse in training worked at your facility?

a. How often will he be lunged?

b. How often will he be saddled and ridden?

c. What is the total training time in hours per week?

d. How are the horses cooled down after exercise?

2. Is instruction for me riding my horse included in the training price?

a. Can I drop in and watch you work my horse?

b. How many lessons per week are included in the training price?

c. Is there a discounted lesson rate for riders who have horses in training?

d. After I take my horse home, if I have problems, will you help me? What

charge will there be for this, if any?

3. What training aids do you use on a regular basis?

a. Do you headset lunge? If so how do you accomplish this?

b. What methods would you use with a horse that is misbehaving?

c. Do you use crops, spurs or whips? How do you use crops, spurs and/or

whips?

d. Do you use tie downs or martingales, side reins or draw reins?

e. Do you tie horses in their stalls?

4. How long will it take to accomplish my goals?

a. Are my goals realistic?

b. Will I be kept up-to-date on the progress of my horse?

c. Will you tell me if, as a rider, I am holding up my horse’s training

progress?

5. How is diet and free exercise managed at your facility?

a. What is the feeding schedule?

b. Do you feed supplements?

c. What brand of grain do you feed?

d. Where do you get your hay and how do you determine how much each

horse gets?

e. How do you check feed quality?

f. Is there pasture opportunity and what is the turnout schedule? How long

are horses turned out?

g. Are horses turned out together?

6. Do you have insurance to cover my horse while it is boarded and ridden at your farm?

a. Do you have a training/boarding contract?

7. How is routine health maintenance managed at your facility?

a. What is the required vaccination schedule?

b. What is the deworming protocol followed at the farm?

c. What farrier is used and how often does the farrier visit?

d. Do you pay for cost of the above directly or through the trainer?

e. Can I select my own veterinarian or farrier?

8. What are your fee and payment requirements?

The key is to ask any question you feel needs an answer. Trainers are used to working with novice horse owners and they should answer all questions with patience and care. Just think – if he/she cannot make it through a list of questions, how patient will he/she be with you under saddle?

Steven M. Jones, Extension Horse Specialist, University of Arkansas

An incorrectly saddled horse is like a person wearing poorly fitted boots. The same way our feet begin to hurt and develop sores, the horse’s back begins to hurt, and it develops saddle and cinch sores.

Correctly saddling a horse requires a saddle that is properly fitted for both the horse and the rider. The two primary types of saddles are Western and English. Since they do not have the same construction, the saddling process is different for each type.

Before the saddling process begins, the horse should be clean in the saddle and cinch, or girth, area. Groom carefully in these areas to prevent irritation and sores from becoming a problem.

Grooming

Grooming involves removing dirt and mud from the horse’s body. A horse that is not groomed well can get sores in the weight-bearing areas, especially the saddle and girth area. Grooming stimulates the hair follicles to secrete oil, which helps protect the coat and keep it in good condition.

Equipment

The basic grooming equipment consists of a curry comb, hoof pick, hard-bristled brush, soft-bristled brush and a mane and tail comb. The curry comb is used to remove mud and caked dirt. Never use the curry comb on the horse’s face or below the knees or hocks. The hard-bristled brush is used to remove the loose dirt. Never use a hard-bristled brush on the horse’s face; however, it can be used below the knees and hocks. The soft-bristled brush is used to remove the finer bits of dirt and dust anywhere on the horse, even the horse’s face. To groom the mane and tail, first separate the tangles with your fingers or a brush, then comb with the mane and tail comb.

The Grooming Process

1. Approach the horse at the left shoulder, making sure it sees and hears you.
2. Slowly move to the throat latch area and work from front to back. Begin the grooming process by first brushing the neck, followed by brushing the back and cinch area, and finally the hindquarters and legs. It is very important to clean and brush the back and girth area so the horse won’t get sores from the saddle or cinch.
3. Repeat this process on the right side. To move to the right side, place your left hand on the horse’s hip and walk closely around the hindquarters to decrease the possibility of being kicked. Always talk to the horse in a calm and reassuring voice while doing this.

Safety Precautions

• Never brush the horse’s head while the horse is tied. This is a sensitive area and may cause the horse to pull back.
• Always stay behind the forelegs because the horse may strike.
• Always walk close around the hindquarters, keeping your hand on the horse and talking so it knows you are behind it. Remember, this is the horse’s blind spot.
• Always stay in front of the hind legs to avoid being kicked.
• Always have a 90-degree angle or more between the horse and the tie area, such as a fence or wall so you won’t get pinned if the horse suddenly moves over.
• Never walk under the horse’s head or neck when it is tied. The horse may pull back then lunge forward and pin you against the tie rail, fence or wall.

Hoof Cleaning

An important part of grooming is cleaning the hoof. If the feet are not cleaned properly, the horse may develop an infection called thrush. Clean the feet by removing dirt and rocks from the sole and frog area. It is very important to clean the cleft of the frog and commissure because this is where bacteria that cause thrush congregate. This also helps prevent bruised soles.

Hoof Cleaning Process

Cleaning your horse's hooves is an important part of grooming.

Front Feet

1. Begin with the left front foot. Put your left hand at the horse’s shoulder and push lightly. This shifts the horse’s weight on the other front foot.
2. Slowly move your hand down the leg to the cannon bone and squeeze between the tendon and cannon bone. As you reach the lower leg, you may say "up" to the horse, to prompt it to list the foot. The horse should lift its foot.
3. Grasp the toe for more control, then put your hand under the front of the hoof to hold it. Clean the bottom of the foot with the hoof pick by smoothly pulling the pick from the heel toward the toe.
4. After cleaning, put the foot down slowly so your horse knows the foot is being released and does not accidentally step on you.

Hind Feet

1. Move to the flank area and put your hand on your horse’s hip.
2. Move your hand slowly down the leg to the cannon bone and squeeze the tendon, just as you did with the front foot.
3. When the horse gives its leg, step back to the flank area and bring the leg with you to maintain a safe control of the hind leg.
4. Step forward and put your inside knee -- the one closest to the horse -- under its raised leg.
5. Grasp the toe and place the foot on your knee. Clean it like the front feet, making sure to remove dirt and debris from the cleft of the frog and of the commissure.

Safety Precaution When cleaning the foot, always move the hoof pick in the direction from heel to toe. Never move the hoof pick from toe to heel because you may jab the horse’s leg or fetlock, or stick the hoof pick in yourself.

Western Saddling

The Saddle Blanket
The saddle blanket is approximately 32 by 32 inches and should be at least a quarter of an inch thick. It should be clean; dirty blankets can cause sores. Place the clean blanket well forward on the wither. It should lie evenly, with equal amounts of material on the horse’s left and right sides. Then slide the blanket back until the front edge is only 4 to 6 inches in front of the withers. This smooths down the hair while protecting the wither area. The blanket should lie flat, with no wrinkles, so that it doesn’t rub the horse’s back, causing sores.

The Saddling Process
The saddling process involves four steps, which must be done in the following order.

1. Ready the saddle by putting the cinches and right stirrup over the seat and out of the way. Clean any dirt or sawdust from the sheepskin lining of the saddle.
2. Bring the saddle to the horse’s left side. Gently place the saddle on the horse back, leaving 4 inches of blanket in front of the saddle.
3. Move to the right side of the horse to let the cinches down and to ensure they are not twisted. The cinches may require adjusting. The center of the horse’s heart girth and the cinch ring should be above the foreflank.
   1. Put the left stirrup over the saddle horn and out of the way.
   2. Reach under the horse and grab the cinch ring and pull it to the left side of the horse.
   3. Thread the end of the latigo through the cinch ring and then through the front dee ring of the saddle. Return the latigo through the cinch ring.
   4. Tighten the cinch by pulling the end of the latigo until snug.
   5. Fasten the latigo in one of the following two ways: (1) Place the tongue of the cinch ring into one of the holes in the latigo and then pull the latigo to ensure the tongue is locked in place. (2) Tie a cinch knot.
   6. Finally, reach under the horse, grasp the back cinch, and buckle it to the back billet on the left side. The back cinch should be snug and the connector strap attached.

Some important points to remember about saddling.

• Be sure there is enough room between the gullet of the saddle and the withers of the horse. A rule of thumb is, if the rider weighs less than 150 pounds, then two fingers should fit between the gullet of the saddle and the withers of the horse. If the rider weighs more than 150 pounds, then three fingers should fit between the fork and the withers. If there is not enough room, add another blanket.
• The front cinch should always be above the horse’s elbow area, in the fore flank area.

Safety Precautions

• Always fasten the front cinch first, followed by the back cinch.
• Be sure the connector strap is fastened between the front cinch and back cinch. This prevents the back cinch from going into the horse’s sensitive rear flank.
• The front cinch should be fastened slowly and not be too tight. Cinching too firm and tight makes some horses cinchy, so they lie down or flip over backwards.

The Final Cinch Tightening
Do not tighten the front cinch too tight initially. After the horse is saddled, lead it a few steps and then tighten the cinch a little more. Again, lead the horse a few more steps and tighten the cinch so that two fingers fit between the latigo -- not the cinch -- and the horse. It is important to cinch the horse slowly so it doesn’t become cinchy.

English Saddling

The Saddle Pad or Blanket
Horses with high, thin withers will need a saddle blanket, saddle pad, or pommel pad placed under the English saddle. This is to prevent the gullet of the saddle from resting on the withers.

Place the saddle blanket or pad well forward on the horse’s neck, then slide it back into the withers area to smooth down the hair. There should be 3 to 4 inches of blanket in front of the English saddle; the blanket should also extend beyond the back of the saddle.

The Saddling Process
The saddling process with the English saddle involves five steps, which must be done in the following order:

1. Get the saddle ready by putting the girth over the seat. It may be easier to remove the girth entirely after each ride, then put the girth back on the saddle when you tack up for the next ride. The irons should have already been run up the stirrup leathers and placed under the skirt flap so they are out of the way.
2. Work from the horse’s left side. Gently place the saddle on the horse’s back. The front end of the saddle should be close to the upper rear edges of the horse’s shoulder blades. Be sure to leave 3 to 4 inches of the blanket or pad in front of the saddle. The blanket should also extend past the rear of the saddle.
3. Move to the right side. Bring the girth down and check that nothing has twisted. Also check to make sure the billets are properly attached to the girth buckles. Some English saddles have three billets and two buckles. Horses that have narrow chests and big bellies should have the girth buckled on the last two billets to the rear to prevent sores in the fore flank. With a broad-chested horse, you can use the two front billets. To prevent irritation to the horse’s withers, push the pad or blanket well up into the gullet of the saddle.
4. Go back to the left side to begin the cinching process:
   1. Reach under the horse and grasp the girth. Bring it up to the left side of the horse.
   2. Lift the skirt and fasten the billets to the girth buckles. Be sure to buckle the same two billets that correspond to the two billets on the off side -- the horse’s right side. If a leather girth is used, the folded edge should be to the front.
5. When you first buckle the girth, adjust it so that you can fit one finger between the girth and the horse’s barrel.

Remember, some horses can become very sensitive to the saddling process. So after the horse is saddled, lead it several steps and check to see if the girth needs to be tightened. Again, as with the Western saddle, it is important to cinch the horse slowly so it does not become cinchy.

Doyle G. Meadows, Professor, Animal Science, University of Tennessee; Warren Gill, Professor, Animal Science

Safety at horse events, such as horse shows, should always be given the highest possible priority. The horse show environment with many different horses and people mixed together in a sometimes hurried and stressful situation is a blueprint for violations of basic safety procedures.

Each year thousands of horse-related injuries occur in the United States. However, many of these accidents could be prevented by observing some basic safety principles. Safety for both riders and horses is a responsibility shared by everyone, including exhibitors, parents, trainers and show management.

Safety Inspections at Home

Obviously one of the first things to be inspected is the tack. Make sure the halter and lead rope are the appropriate size and strength for the horse. A cheaply made, low-quality halter or lead rope may not be strong enough to restrain a horse during an unexpected jerk or bolt. The snaps and buckles should be inspected for possible breaks or signs of stress or weakness. A heavy-weight snap on the end of a lead rope may prevent a horse from getting away from the handler.

Bridles should also be inspected. The rider should always check the entire bridle for any abnormal wear or weakness. Reins should be well attached to the bit by rivets or screws or secured by leather ties. The head piece of the bridle should be properly attached to the bit to prevent an accident while a rider is mounted. All the leather should be properly conditioned to prevent breakage due to drying and cracking. Cleaning your leather tack after riding by simply wiping down with a damp cloth will extend the life of the leather. Frayed or worn places in the leather should be replaced immediately. Metal parts on the bridle and bit such as hinged cheek pieces and buckles should be rust-free and in good working order.

The primary safety inspection site of a saddle is the girth. Make sure the girth is strong and long enough so that undue pressure is not placed on it. Additionally, the cinch, whether webbed nylon or leather, should be strong and free from excess wear. Stirrup leathers and stirrups should be routinely checked and replaced at the first sign of weakness or wear. The saddle should be clean, well-conditioned and stored in a clean, dry area when not in use. Safety inspections of the towing vehicle and horse trailer are critical for a safe journey. Proper health documentation necessary for hauling horses as well as numerous other considerations are addressed in two fact sheets provided by The University of Tennessee Agricultural Extension Service. These fact sheets, TNH-3000 Traveling With Your Horse and TNH-3001 Tips for Trailering Your Horse, can be obtained from TN Extension Service.

Safety at the Horse Event

Horse shows can be hectic, but there should always be enough time for safety. Upon arrival at the event, inspect the horse and tack stalls for safety hazards to people and horses. Look for nails, loose boards or other hazardous objects that are potential problems. Check for electrical wires and outlets that are exposed and otherwise unsafe. The tack room and aisle ways should be free from debris and always clear and open. Inspect for fire hazards in and around the stall area.

Closely inspect wash racks before rinsing or bathing the horse. Slick concrete floors, missing or stopped-up drains and loose bricks or concrete can cause severe injury to horses and people. Any of these problems should be reported to the event manager immediately.

Indoor and outdoor arenas, rings or riding areas should be observed prior to riding or exercising the horse.

Unsafe footing, abnormally dark corners or potentially dangerous fence line objects should be noted and subsequently avoided until corrected by management. Low-hanging lights, rafters or overhead doors may appear to be safe while the rider is on the ground; however, they may cause a safety threat to both horse and rider while the rider is mounted. Elimination of potentially unsafe situations can increase the chances for a fun-filled horse show.

Equestrian safety helmets can significantly reduce head injury to the horseback rider. Each year more than 120,000 horseback riders are treated at hospital emergency rooms in the United States. Approximately 20 percent of these injuries are head injuries, thus emphasizing the need for all riders to wear safety helmets. Safety helmets and harness to secure the helmet are too often overlooked as a tool to reduce injury and death to horseback riders.

There is no such thing as a totally safe horse. Horses just have varying degrees of training. Typically, the better trained horse is a safer horse. Allowing youth to ride “greenbroke” horses at horse events is a serious safety violation and can result in severe injury. On the other hand, horses ridden for years on the farm may be totally unacceptable mounts in a horse show environment. The noise, people, vehicles, trailers and other horses can often cause trained and untrained horses to buck or rear. Horseback riders should not expose themselves to danger with an unfamiliar horse.

Beware of horses with behavioral problems. Some horses will kick other horses or riders as they approach or pass them. Others horses may kick or bite while tied in an alleyway. Always use precautions while walking near or around all horses. A horse that kicks should have a red ribbon attached to its tail. The red ribbon is a universal sign that the horse tends to kick. Stay well clear of a horse with a red ribbon on its tail.

Exhibitors should always practice show-ring courtesy. Riders should maintain a safe distance from other exhibitors and pass with care. Failure to follow show ring instructions promptly can cause unsafe riding conditions, as horses may be executing different gaits and traveling at different speeds.

Although it may be convenient, do not tie horses to an unstable object. Horses should be tied to secure objects such as stall walls, sturdy fences or a horse trailer with appropriate tie hooks or specific hitching rail. Never tie a horse with the reins. Remove the bit and bridle and tie with a halter and lead rope. These simple procedures may prevent an injury to the horse or even a spectator.

Tying to horse trailers that are not hooked to a vehicle is a very popular but unsafe practice. Small trailers that are parked on a slope may start to roll with a small amount of pull from a horse. These unattached trailers are generally convenient and safe if properly blocked and secured. Completely close and latch all trailer doors to prevent them from abruptly opening due to wind or other movements and causing injury to the horse.

Do not attach a horse in any way to the exhibitor or rider. It is a serious mistake to wrap a lead rope tightly around a hand or arm. Many serious accidents have resulted from this mistake.

Many injuries occur while exhibitors are grooming their horses. One of the most common injuries to exhibitors is injury to their feet. Leather shoes with hard soles or boots are a must while working around the horse. Tennis shoes are unsafe and should never be worn when working with a horse. The horse may step on an exhibitor as an escape response to grooming or to avoid and dislodge flies. Reducing fly annoyance is a safety precaution and provides more comfort to the horse.

While brushing or grooming the horse, always keep the free hand on the horse as a method to push away from the horse in case of emergency. This practice also keeps you and the horse in direct communication. Never get directly in front or behind the horse. The horse cannot see directly behind it. The closer you are to the horse, the less likely you are to be injured from a kick. You can also keep your hand on the horse as you walk around just to let the horse know everything is all right. Do not try to go in front of the horse in a restricted area and never go underneath a horse, regardless of the age or presumed safety of the mount.

One of the most common occasions for a horse to escape from its handler at a horse show is during the change from a leather or nylon work halter to a show halter. Show halters should be put on horses in the stall or outside with ample assistance. The nylon work halter should be unbuckled, taken off the head and buckled around the horse’s neck before the show halter is put on the horse. The work halter should not be removed from around the horse’s neck until the show halter is completely fastened and secure.

Many horse and rider injuries occur because the rider surprised the horse and the horse overreacted, causing an injury. Always approach the horse toward the head and shoulder, giving verbal greetings. Never surprise a horse from behind. Always give the horse a rub on the neck along with kind words after the approach.

Although rarely discussed as a safety problem, family and personal safety against theft and bodily harm should be practiced at all times. Young people should avoid unfamiliar people, places and situations and always stay with their family and friends. Trucks, trailers, purses, tack and equipment could also be easy prey for vandalism or theft. Always secure valuables, not only during non-show hours, but also during the show itself. Exhibitors cannot be too careful.

Safety Considerations for Horse Show Mangers

Horse show management should set the stage for safety. An excellent way to establish and enforce safety standards and regulations is to appoint a safety officer. The safety officer is responsible for maintaining safety standards throughout the show. The officer observes operational procedures around the grounds and evaluates each event or class for potentially dangerous situations. For example, in over-fence classes, the officer would first make certain the jumps are safe and that the height and orientation of the jumps match the skill level of the competitors. Speed events such as pole bending, barrel racing and the stake race should be held in an arena with adequate wall height and appropriate running surface. A safe, well-lighted arena is a must for safety at night horse shows.

Horse show management should avoid hanging banners, bunting, flags or other items in places that could cause a horse to become startled. Streamers and banners hung across the entrance gate are common safety hazards. Excessive wind can cause these to move or flap, resulting in an injury to horse or rider. In indoor arenas, these flags or banners should always be placed high enough for horse and rider to easily ride under them. Although these forms of advertisement may be financially necessary for show management, precautions should be taken to ensure adequate safety standards.

Personnel trained in handling emergency medical situations should be available throughout the show. Emergency procedures should be prepared in advance of the show and “no parking” lanes strictly enforced to allow for emergency medical transportation. Local hospitals should be on alert and proper authorization for attending physicians documented prior to the show.

Emergency health care should also be available to the horse. It is always good to have an equine veterinarian located on the show grounds. In lieu of this, a list of local veterinarians and their office, mobile and home phone numbers should be posted outside the horse show office. The veterinarians should be notified prior to the show and their consent obtained before posting their phone numbers. A scheduled time for a veterinarian to be on the grounds is also an effective way to provide veterinary care for horses.

Show management should be aware of weather-related safety hazards. When showing in an outside arena, stop the show as soon as lightning is observed. Avoid holding over-fence or speed events on rain-slick or muddy surfaces. Hot, humid weather can also be hazardous. When temperatures soar, be prepared to provide plenty of liquids. Encourage exhibitors to seek shade when not competing and relax attire requirements. Show management can also encourage the judge to not overwork horses.

Discourage or prohibit dogs on the grounds. Under no circumstances should dogs be off a leash, if allowed on the show grounds. Dogs make some horses nervous and can be a safety threat. This is particularly true at youth horse shows, where numerous horses and exhibitors who are unfamiliar with one another are brought together. Rules and regulations about dogs should be made available to exhibitors prior to the horse show.

Exhibitors with problem horses may be a threat to safety. Horses that cannot be controlled should be dismissed from competition. A horse-wise ring steward can assist the judge and show management in averting problems and can help prevent a potentially bad situation from becoming dangerous.

Security measures should be taken to ensure that participants are not at risk due to fire, vandalism, theft or criminal misconduct. Show management should always enforce no-smoking rules at horse shows. Security is a 24-hour concern and must be adequately addressed throughout the show.

Summary

Common sense is the key to safe and successful horse showing. Safety procedures should not only be practiced at horse shows but also at home every day. Safety precautions must be used daily before they become habit and second nature. Thinking and planning ahead may save the life of an exhibitor or horse. Have fun, but remember, horse play with real horses can be dangerous.

Ashley Griffin, University of Kentucky

The trainer must decide the appropriate form of reinforcement to stimulate the proper response when a horse initially learns a new cue. The basic principle of reinforcement is that certain events are capable of strengthening responses to certain stimuli. It is doubtful any learning can take place without some type of reinforcement.

Reinforcement can be divided into two categories:

• Primary reinforcement - has natural reinforcement properties. Examples of primary reinforcement are feed, pain, and returning to herd mates.
• Secondary reinforcement - is performing acts of kindness. Examples of secondary reinforcement are a pat on the neck, a verbal "good horse," not asking the horse to perform the task again, and ending the training session. Secondary reinforcement will take a period of time for the horse to learn.Trainers primarily use secondary reinforcement in training horses.

Types of Reinforcement

1. Positive - reward training - Rewards imposed on a horse during training must first be associated with a primary reinforcement for the horse to distinguish it. This type of reinforcement can be quite successful in training a horse. Today, more trainers use positive reinforcement in their training programs. There is a move to more natural horsemanship and an increasing desire to understand why a horse reacts to a situation based on its natural instinct.

1. Negative reinforcement - This consists of adverse stimuli that, if given a choice, the horse will avoid.

Types of negative reinforcement

Punishment must immediately follow the incorrect response. If too much time is allowed to go by, the reinforcement effectiveness is lowered. Punishment must be administered with care so that it will not become the stimulus for bad behavior. A horse can become panicky through negative reinforcement, causing the trainer to stop training before the desired response is reached. The horse will quickly learn that unmanageable behavior will stop negative reinforcement. The horse can also become so intent on watching and understanding the trainer that its performance may suffer.